The BEST Guide to Installing Artificial Grass on your Lawn

If possible you should try to buy a roll that is wide enough to fill your space. This is to avoid having to manage joining the edges (seams) of two rolls. Joining seams is a tricky task, and if your installation is big enough to require this, then we’d recommend getting a professional to install the artificial grass for you. If you’re really keen on giving it a go, check out our guide to joining seams.

While you are planning, it’s good to know that artificial grass has a pile direction, much like carpets. This is to do with how the artificial grass is manufactured. Pile direction is the natural lean of the grass blades, and is typically in line with the direction artificial grass is rolled. If your space has a main viewpoint, for example looking from your house into your back yard, then plan to have the pile direction in line with this view. This is not mandatory, but artificial grass looks best when viewed this way.

Confused? Just imagine standing at the viewpoint (your house) an unrolling carpet in the direction of your yard. This is the direction in which the artificial grass roll should be laid.

Next calculate the area of your space on square feet. This is important because you need to know how much material to order to go under the artificial grass (more on this later). Area is simply width in feet multiplied by length in feet. If you have an irregular space, use graph paper to help calculate the area.

Assess the Site

Before starting the ground works, have a look at the site and have a think about and existing problems.

If the site has poor drainage and is prone to water pooling, then you will need to address this before installing your artificial lawn. Maybe all that mud is the reason you want an artificial grass lawn in the first place. A French drain is a perforated pipe that is laid in a shallow trench under the lawn. The perforations let water into the pipe, and the pipe carries the water away. Another option is to dig a big hole and fill it with loose rubble like broken bricks. The rubble has a lot of empty space and so gives the water somewhere to go.

If you have problems with weeds, then it would be a very good idea to treat the area with weed killer after you have cleared it of the existing turf. A weed mat will help keep the weeds down, but if you have a known problem then it’s best to address it before laying your artificial grass lawn.

If the site is sloping, then you may want to plan to level it out. A slope may cause the artificial grass to slump down the slope. If you can’t or don’t want to flatten the area, don’t worry there is a solution! At the top of the slope, at the level of the artificial grass lawn, embed a piece of treated 2 x 4 timber into the ground. When you install the artificial grass lawn, nail the top end of the lawn to the timber. This will stop the artificial grass from moving down the slope.

For a pin-sharp installation, consider installing a perimeter of 2 x 4 timbers. You can nail the artificial grass to these timbers to stop it from moving about.

Dig, Dig, Dig!

At the end of this article is a list of tools and materials you’ll need – we’ll assume that you’ve already got these to hand. Make sure that you have planned somewhere to put the turf you are going to dig out. Depending on the size of your yard, you might consider renting a dumpster.

Also it’s a good idea to put the artificial grass roll outside, so that its temperature can match that of the outside air. It’s best to install your artificial grass on a sunny day, as the sun will warm the roll and make it lay flat (and not curled).

Get digging! Dig out the old turf and the dirt underneath to a depth of 3 inches. If you need to dig a little deeper to reach a solid surface then go ahead, but make sure you order some extra base material (more on this later).

Clear the site of any stones or other debris, and do what you can to make it as flat and level as possible. A long (6 foot or longer) straight piece of wood with a spirit level on top is very useful for getting the area flat and level. Start at the lowest point, and drag the length of wood over the surface keeping it level according to the spirit level. Pretend to be a road grader and scrape away any high spots. Repeat as needed until the area is flat and level.

Now is the time to add a French drain if the site has drainage issues. Make sure that the drain takes the water away from the area, preferably downhill.

Fill it Up Again

First you’re going to lay the weed mat. This goes in first to prevent any remaining weed roots from coming up through the base. Use landscape staples every 6 feet or so to pin it to the ground. This helps stop the weed mat from moving when you’re installing the base.

Top tip: if you have pets it is essential that the weed mat goes down first. Otherwise, their urine will get trapped between the weed mat and the artifical grass.

Next you’re going to lay 2 inches of Class 2 Road Base over the area (also called Type 2 aggregate). As a rule of thumb, for a 2 inch covering you will need 15 pounds of Type 2 aggregate per square foot. If you had to dig out more than 3 inches of the original turf, then you will need more.

Carefully spread it out using a metal rake or similar. Take care not to disturb the weed mat. Use the trick with the 6 foot length of wood and the spirit level to keep it all level. Once you’re happy, compact the aggregate with a mechanical or manual compactor.

Next you’re going to lay 1 inch of compacted sand or decomposed granite. As a rule of thumb, you’ll need 7.5 pounds per square foot. Spread it out using a metal rake or similar. If you have installed a perimeter for 2 x 4 timbers, fill the granite up to the level of the timbers. When you’re done hit it with the compactor again. Give it a light misting of water with a watering can or hose.

If you don’t want to go to all this effort, you can skip the Type 2 aggregate and just lay 1 inch of compacted sand or decomposed granite.